Thursday, May 4, 2017

Dungeon Scenery & Anthropomorphic Adventurers 28mm




 My last Kickstarter with products shipping in June 2017.  Casting equipment and molds to be sold later in the year.



Free Fursona PDF stats of all 10 anthro characters with art

$25 Basic pledge (6 feline anthros and 5 treasure chests) 15 miniatures Free shipping USA

$45 pledge (Basic pledge plus any stretch goals achieved, possible 48 miniatures) Free shipping USA

$100 pledge (Double Basic pledge and triple stretch goals even if not achieved) 129 figures Free shipping USA

Add-on selection of previous KS projects (Dungeon Décor, Undead, Carcasses, Salvage Crew, Robots)








Monday, February 27, 2017

Robots, Drones, Cybers, Ratmen Kickstarter

     The basic pledge of $45 nets you a pound in weight of metal figures; a total of 25 containing 83 separately cast parts.  My 5th Kickstarter contains new and old pieces, many of which have not been available since 2013.  Unlike my previous Kickstarters there are no stretch goals.  Just one big cheap pile of robotic madness!   




     Plus, I have included many add-on options from cyber-grunts, to units of security drones.  I’ve spent the last two years making well over 100 molds for this project which can be purchased till March 30th 2017.  I will begin shipping pledges as early as April with the bulk shipping in May of 2017.


Monday, May 16, 2016

Zombie and Skeleton Fantasy Monsters series I

    2016 will be the year of the Fantasy Monsters for JohnnyBorgCastings.com  with two Kickstarters scheduled on the subject, one live right now and the other just before the year is out.  

     This first set includes 15 Fantasy Zombie and Skeletal Monsters at 28mm scale on Kickstarter till June 18th 2016, plus 15 additional Dungeon Décor stretch goals.  




     Already reasonably priced at $2.66 each, achieved stretch goals can bring the price down to $1.25 each and the double pledge level can potentially bring the price down to 99 cents each.  This is my 4th Kickstarter and I cast my own figures with over 100,000 parts sold in the previous three completed Kickstarters.




Also, you can add-on over 100 different single figures from my previous three Kickstarters.   Go to this Kickstarter where you will find the PDF  Catalog download with part numbers, prices, and pics.




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Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Car Combat Game and Miniatures

     Johnny Lauck has teamed up with Miles Holmes, the creator of Road Kill Ultimate Car Combat Game, to offer a NEW set of modular vehicles, scenery, weapons, and accessories cast in metal at N scale.  Johnny is casting the figures, fulfilling orders, making the molds, and managing this kickstarter. 


 Click on this image to enlarge
     
You will find the FREE 98 page revised core rules book and templates on the Kickstarter.   Road Kill is a tabletop strategy game where horsepower meets firepower!  Road Kill can be played in less than 1 hour with 2-5 gamers.

 Click on this image to enlarge

     This Kickstarter runs from September 1st  to October 17th,  2015 with the first wave of shipments will start heading out on November 17th 2015.  Johnny’s new policy is to ship the highest dollar pledges first.


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Sunday, February 15, 2015

Tavern (Dungeon Decor series 2) Kickstarter

JohnnyBorg Castings presents the latest...


33 figures for $35 that include 11 chairs, 6 tables, 6 seated patrons that can fit on all chair types, and 10 random dinner ware.  



More free stretch goals that you can shake a wizards staff at...

Runs till March 31st, 2015 and begins shipping April 13th 2015.   I will return to posting "My Dog Ate My KS Funds" shortly.



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Sunday, January 25, 2015

My Dog Ate My KS Funds (part 5 of 10)



5:  Shipping and Scale Up

     Customers generally want three things when placing an order with your crowd funding project.  #1 approximate shipping date, #2 confirmation when it ships, and #3 no hassles or damages upon delivery.  Customer satisfaction cuts down on problems and keeps them coming back for more.  Always put yourself in the customers shoes. 

Damaged goods are not entirely avoidable.  We are dealing with a middle man, the postal carrier.  When a box travels from point A to point B, you will never know how that parcel is handled.  Then there is the possibility that customs will open your carefully packed box, look through the contents to assess value, and then carelessly throw the figures back in the box for delivery. 

There is also figure design.  One particular sword wielding figure that I shipped out in my first KS was prone to bending and breaking off.  I’m currently having a sculptor redesign the hand and sword on the figure so as to avoid future shipping problems. 

Regardless, the goal is to keep the figures from shifting and you can never over insulate from that possibility. Here are some materials to help prevent damage. 

Chip board boxes:  These little boxes are shipped condensed and flat, are offered in many sizes/shapes and can be quickly assembled. In my region of the world, I order them from Uline.com or MichiganBox.com for the cheapest shipping rates to me.  You want to order heavy cardboard office supplies that are close to your location to save money.  I primarily use chip board boxes to fill up the space as best I can within the main shipping box, creating a box or boxes within the main box.  This re-enforces the strength of the box and helps to prevent against damage should your box end up at the bottom of a heavy pile of materials during shipping.  (customer satisfaction #3). 

Chip board boxes on the left and corrugated on the right

Zip lock baggies:  Initially I was against the use of these handy and cheap containers, but over time I discovered they are great for separating parts into groups, keeping tiny parts from loss, and can be folded in many ways and tightly packed into the chip board boxes.  These too can be ordered from Uline.com in many sizes.

Case of 1,000 zip baggies size 3 x 4 inches

Stuffing:  Recycle whenever possible.  I shred most of my business paperwork after seven years because you can’t be audited in the USA after that period.  If you don’t generate a lot of paperwork, then shred newspaper which you can find in great quantity from neighbors or recycling center dumpsters even in today’s digital age.  You will have to invest in a paper shredder (mine is a floor model with wheels, cost around $160 several years ago, and holds eight gallons of shredded paper).  Small table top shredders are not very reliable so spend the money and get a good one. There is that initial cost but then your stuffing is free for years to come.  Fill in areas within the chip board box with shredded paper to keep the contents tight. 

My shredder can cut 30 sheets at a time, paperclips, and CDs
 
Outer shipping box:  In the USA, use USPS.com because your priority shipping boxes are free.  I do keep a generic brown corrugated box on hand (ordered through MichiganBox.com) for orders that I want to ship first class outside of the USA to reduce shipping prices.  You can further save money by creating prepaid shipping labels through the USPS.com website.  Tracking information is generated on each online purchase and automatically e-mailed to customers fulfilling (customer satisfaction #2).   The online service allows you the convenience of running the labels the night before, and then simply dropping them off at your local United States Postal Service center avoiding having to wait forever for the clerk to do the same time consuming work.

     Basically, if you design it right, you should only have costs tied up in zip lock baggies, chip board boxes, and packaging tape with the stuffing and outer boxes costing you nothing. 

Scaling up:  The maximum amount of orders I could cast, sort, box, and label in a weekend was 50.  The online labeling alone took approximately one hour per 10 labels.  I would cut and paste the shipping information and e-mail information directly from my KS pledge report found in my accounts area online, into the USPS.com account to keep the information as accurate as possible.  This also allowed me to flag the rewards that were shipped as I was generating the labels and then filter pledgers out of future reports to keep track of who was taken care of.  If I were to type and copy it by hand, there may have been typos and delays in delivery.  Lastly you pre-pay before the labels can be downloaded and printed, and affixed to the boxes.  Time is a major factor in running a successful crowd funding project and scaling up is simply the term for repeating a process in greater multiples.  I had close to 250 pledges divided by 50 a week or five weeks.  Due to some unforeseen problems it took me six weeks to ship them all.  If I would have received 1,000 pledges the shipping would have taken 20 weeks or five months to complete. Scaling up is a good estimating tool that allows you to pass information to your supporters to keep them informed as the project moves forward supporting (customer satisfaction #1).

Shipping charges:  As mentioned in the previous article “The Math Behind Rewards”, if you need $10 shipping and handling to cover expenses per reward, you will need to increase this amount by 1.1 or ask $11 shipping because the crowdfunder host is going to take fees out of the end total.  I can offer free shipping in the USA even though it costs me $5.25 each because I factored that into my formula as a cost for my project like metal, packaging, etc.   Free shipping is a great way to attract customers if you have room in your profit margins.  I asked $10 from overseas customers because my average overseas package cost me $14 to ship (base cost/expense of $5.25 on all orders plus $9 overseas customer after crowdfunding fee). 

Crowdfunders:  Keep costs down by looking at many ways to box all orders, as long as the savings does not impede the safe arrival of the products within.  Scale up when a project ends so you know how long it will take to ship.

Pledgers:  Projects that ship beyond the year they were promised will often run into increased shipping costs for the crowdfunder, who has already  budgeted in that expense in a previous year and now has to raise more funds. 

Next Week:  Walk the Talk

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Monday, January 19, 2015

My Dog Ate My KS Funds (part 4 of 10)



4: The Math behind Rewards

     The object of a crowd funded project is not to gross as much money as possible, but to keep your costs from running beyond the gross sales while maintaining a profit or break even point.   Rewards cannot simply be given away indefinitely, there is a limit.  If you go over the limit, you’re now taking a loss and the project will fail unless you chip in your own money.  Here is an example of how to calculate when each new stretch goal can be afforded.

     Starting pledge level example:  You want to create 10 human sized figures and sell them for a pledge for $30.00.  The pledge value is one of many values that can be tweaked and changed to make the project break even or profitable.  You’re going to lose roughly 10% of all the funds you raise due to credit card processing fees and crowd funding fees.  So you will actually be receiving $27 per pledge.

     Pre-production cost value example:  Your sculptor quotes you $3,000 for 10 humans and a mold maker quotes you $100 for a master mold and $600 for production molds for a base total of $3,700.  

     Core packaging cost value example:  Remember in article #2 (Income tax and profits) I showed my total costs per pledge?  Use that same logic to create what your cost will be per pledge in packaging materials, zip baggies, paper costs, etc.  Let’s say $2.00 not counting the cost per figure.

    Production cost value example: Each human figure costs 75 cents to cast if outsourced or 25 cents if you own your own equipment but for the sake of this article we will assume you are outsourcing which is what most miniature crowdfunders do.   10 figures cast at 75 cents = $7.50 per pledge plus the $2 in core packaging fees = $9.50 cost per pledge.    

    Goal calculation example: Using your starting pledge level of $30 for 10 figures (not counting shipping charges), your profit per pledge will be $17.50 (production cost of $9.50 minus $27 due to fees off the $30).  Divide $17.50 into the initial pre production value of $3,700 you want to raise = 211 pledges.  Your “Goal” is now 211 x $30 (not counting shipping) or $6,330 to break even. 

     Shipping charges:  For the sake of simplicity, we will leave out the calculation of shipping charges and cover that in article #5.  Remember to multiply the shipping charge received by (1.1) to take into account the 10% extra you will need due to crowdfunding fees.

     Stretch goal #1 example:  Stretch goals are not necessary crowdfunding requirements but are greatly appreciated bonus figures to supporters causing many of your supporters to spread the word about your project. 
     One additional stretch goal pre production cost sculpture and molds work $370.00 (estimated based on the average cost to make 10)  added to the “Pre-production cost” $3,700 = $4,070.  Take your production cost value of $9.50 add in the #1 stretch goal casting cost of .75 cents = $10.25 minus $27 remaining pledge your new profit per pledge is $16.75 divided into the new “pre-production” total of $4,070 in this example 243 x $30 your next “Goal calculation” is $7,290.  In other words, when pledges reach $7,290 you can afford to add in ONE human sized stretch goal to the initial $30 pledge and still break even on the project.  That is an increase of $960 from your original starting goal.  This is assuming your stretch goal is the same size/weight etc as all of the figures in the project and you only have to create one set of molds per figure with metal castings. 

Stretch goal #2 example:  Using the same formula, watch the compounded costs increase outcome per stretch goal added.  Pre-production cost $370 + $4,070 = $4,440.  Production cost 75 cents + $10.25 = $11.00 minus $27 pledge level = $16.00 divided into pre-production $4,440 = 278 x $30 = $8,340.   The new increase is $1,080 to break even and add in stretch goal #2 to the $30 pledge level.

Stretch goals compounded costs on a $30 pledge: 
Initial goal to break even $6,330 ….................10 figures     211 pledges
Stretch goal #1  $7,290   ($960 increase) …….11th figure   243 pledges
Stretch goal #2  $8,340   ($1,050 increase) …..12th figure   278 pledges
Stretch goal #3  $9,450    ($1,110 increase) ….13th figure   315 pledges
Stretch goal #4  $10,710  ($1,260 increase) .…14th figure   357 pledges
Stretch goal #5  $12,120  ($1,410 increase) .…15th figure   404 pledges
Stretch goal #6  $13,650  ($1,530 increase) .…16th figure   455 pledges

     When would stretch goals begin losing money?  As soon as your combined production costs, pre-production costs, and core package costs reach $27.  In this example, by stretch goal #23, assuming that every sculpture, casting costs, and mold work costs are the same. 

Remember to always double check the math on all stretch goals. 
(Example using stretch goal #5)
Sculptures 15 x $370 = $5,550
Cast figures 15 x .75 = $11.25 x 404 pledges =$4,545
Core package costs $2.00 x 404 pledges = $808
Subtotal $10,903
Gross sales $27 x 404 pledges = $10,908 ($5 off to my advantage because I rounded up or down on some of the fractions in the example)
Gross sales before 10% fee $30 x 404 pledges = $12,120

     Note that this article is a rough calculation and is designed to show the math behind compounding.  There are plenty of “variables” that will greatly alter the calculation such as a higher dollar pledges to increase profits, casting or sculpting your own figures, giving away rewards that are overstock, lower processing fees, smaller or larger figures, free or reduced shipping, increased shipping charges due to added rewards, etc.

Crowdfunders:  Thoroughly work out the math first and get quotes for mold and casting work from many sources.  Always round up to protect against error, but be prepared to take a loss if necessary because there can be unforeseen expenses when you are starting with absolutely nothing.    

Pledgers:  Avoid projects where stretch goals vary in size dramatically.  Larger figures such as monsters cost two to 10 times more to produce and make calculating costs for the project creator nearly impossible.  Therefore, the project could be at risk of failure.

Next week:  Shipping and Scaling Up

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Monday, January 12, 2015

My Dog Ate My KS Funds (Part 3 of 10)



3:  Metal vs. Resin

     What exactly is a resin?  For the purpose of this article, it is a polyurethane product that comes in a two or more part mixture and cures into a plastic.  The resin can be poured in a variety of ways, but for mass production we would use the spin casting method. 

     What exactly is metal?  For the purpose of this article, we are specifically talking about a tin alloy that melts around 500-600 degrees.  

Costs per figure:  Resin is the most cost effective material versus metal.  Pricing discounts are minimal when purchasing metal in a larger quantity.  However, if you are able to afford part A and B of a polyurethane resin in 55 gallon drums, your savings are substantial.

Here is one example of a manufacturer of resins and silicone mold materials.  Feel free to comment below and link other manufacturers of resins.

http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5/index.html
Smooth Cast 300Q (5 minute cure time) 1 gallon purchase = 2 gallons total (A and B combined) $85 plus shipping as of this writing. Based on my past experience with resin pouring, I’m roughly estimating 1,000 to 1,500 human sized figures for $100 outlay in resin liquids (8 to 10 cents each) compared with metal (25 cents each).  This price includes resin waste.  (See Recycling below)

Storing the material:  Metal wins this category, because it can be stored at any temperature, comes in ingots that weigh between 4 and 16 pounds each, has no expiration date, and can easily be transported by hand in the casting room to the melting pot when needed.  Resin on the other hand must be stored at room temperatures around 70 degrees, has a shelf life which is greatly reduced once the containers are opened, is hard to handle in larger quantities (450 plus pounds for a 55 gallon drum), and must be mixed for every single casting.

Recycling:  Metal wins this category hands down.  When a metal figure does not cast properly, you simply throw it back into the melting pot to be reborn again.  Unfortunately with resin, all bad castings, large spru if you spin cast, and all mixing containers like paper cups and stir sticks, go into the trash.  As in part one of this series, pouring figures with resin makes it difficult to know exact costs per figure but is certainly the best option for large figures like giants, dragons, buildings, or vehicles. 
    
Mold life:  Metal wins this category hands down.  I use the hard rubber organic 700 series molds from www.Contenti.com

Mold life varies on the figures design and the mold maker’s ability.   I have owned molds that have generated over 1,000 spins and I would put the average life at 500 spins minimum.  Even with mold release agents, resins degrade hard rubber and silicone molds rapidly.  The average mold life using resins are 50 pours/spins.  In other words, the use of polyurethane resins causes the caster to create 10 times the number of molds, eating up valuable time and resources. 

Product detail:  A variety of resins allow for high detail yield, whereas metal castings have limits.  High resin detail is an appreciated advantage, but primarily caters to a small percentage of gamers.  Resin figures are easier to do conversions with too, but the metal figure has been around in the hobby for more than 40 years. 

Crowdfunders:  If you’re going to cast very small quantities of individual miniatures (500 or less), resin is your best method in a manufacturing set up and offers the least amount of investment.  However, if you plan on producing long term, with quantities exceeding 500 per figure, metal is my number one choice.  Metal is the simplest and fastest method of casting.  No hassle with shelf life, 100% recyclable, low mold upkeep, and offers plenty of detail for the average gaming fan.  Note that you will have to ventilate your casting area regardless of what materials you use.

Pledgers:  Resin figure projects may have longer wait time regarding shipping, because resin casting production is a slower procedure than metal.  Resin requires a mixing of liquid agents and a cure time that far exceed metals 30 second cooling period. Mold making is a very time consuming process.

Next Week:  The math behind rewards
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Monday, December 29, 2014

My Dog Ate My KS Funds (Part 2 of 10)



2:  Income tax & profits

     In the United States of America, income received is taxable.  Not gross sales, but income which is based on profits for the year.  Profits are dollars received (gross sales) minus expenses paid (written off) and some other factors too. 

     Expenses should be written off in the tax year the crowd funded project ends.  Most expenses for miniature crowd funding projects include mold work, metal ingots, sculptures, crowd funding fees, packaging material and shipping charges. 

     If a project raises funds and the end product does not ship in the same year, then additional expenses such as shipping charges for example, will have to be written off in the following fiscal year.  Unfortunately, higher taxes will be owed the year the crowd funded project ends and possibly more shipping expenses too as rates tend to increase from year to year.

    Let’s break down the costs per basic pledge using my KS as an example.
$30 pledge for customers in the USA = 20 miniatures plus stretch goals and free shipping.

Metal costs by weight = $ 7.50
Zip baggies to organize contents x 11 = $  .55
Plastic bases x 25 = $  .75
Printed invoice and shipping label ink/paper = $  .05
10% KS took when project ended = $3.00
Shipping charge USPS.com online = $5.20
Chipboard boxes x 2 = $  .32
Packaging tape = $ .10

Costs = $17.47 against a $30 pledge in the USA is a potential profit of $12.53


     I can now apply that profit toward other expenses not listed such as molds and sculptures.   I conduct business as an S-Corporation which means I'm self-employed, my time is not a factor in the eyes of the IRS, just my expenses, with my end profit for the year equaling my personal income. 

    Here are two examples of how expenses for a project spent in the same and different year can affect profits and put a crowdfunded project in jeopardy.   

Example 1 (Same year):   In 2014, you take in $10,000 and your expenses are $5,000.  You pay income tax based on $5,000 profit ( 10-5=5 ).  Let’s estimate 25% income tax owed ($1,250) on the profit leaving you with $3,750 remaining.
   
Example 2 (following year): However, if half of your expenses are received in 2014 and the other half in a later fiscal year, you’ll pay more against profits.  This new example is $10,000 received and $2,500 in expenses for 2014, with an additional $2,500 in expenses in the following year ( 10-2.5=7.5 ).  Your profit for 2014 is now $7,500  x  25% and you owe the IRS $1,875.  That is $625 less that you have to work with for your crowd funding project. You'll still be able to write off additional expenses in the following year specifically for that year, but how easily the money evaporates from a project putting it at risk of completion. 

Scale the pledges up to $100,000 using example 2 and your looking at $6,250 less to work with and possibly a higher tax bracket of 28% or more.

Your tax bracket, or the percentage you pay the IRS on income depends on if you are filing as an individual or married couple.  Rates are available online, but change from year to year.  Again, if you finish the project in the year the pledges end,  you'll know the tax bracket percentage, exact shipping costs, and your budget will be sound. 

Pledgers:  Watch out for projects that are scheduled to ship in the following year.    

Crowdfunders:  Start your project off early in the year to generate as many expenses against your gross sales so you can reduce any amount owed to the IRS.  A project that breaks even or takes a loss could mean no money owed and possibly a refund. Consult an accountant to see what type of business you should file under that would best benefit you. 

Next week:  Metal vs. Resin

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Sunday, December 21, 2014

My Dog Ate my KS Funds (Part 1 of 10)

     Crowdfunding projects seemed to be a great idea at first, but I think a lot of people pledging these days are having second thoughts . Bear in mind that no matter how great the idea or offer may be, the majority of crowdfunding projects are launched by people with no or minimal business or production experience. No wonder many have failed or are extremely late and likely never to materialize.  However, we should expect some excuses, because problems are inevitable no matter how well you plan.  Regardless, excuses never resolve problems. People who pledge are not paying to hear excuses, but for goods promised.

     I will be writing an article each week on this very subject, a total of 10 in all, covering the “do's and don’ts” of crowdfunding, with a focus on miniatures.  You will find that excuses are often substituted for a lack of homework and are an attempt to point the blame elsewhere.      

     Recently, I launched my first Kickstarter.  I have generally been against crowdfunding for many years, but decided to give it a try and finish or expand several projects now that I do not make my full time living anymore in the gaming industry.  People who trust me pledged $12,000 and when the fund-raising ended, I had shipped every reward in 45 days. 

     The project required the casting of nearly 15,000 miniature parts sorted and shipped to 240 recipients/supporters and I did it all by myself on the weekends.  I will launch my next KS in the spring of 2015 (see Dungeon Décor series 2). 

     Although I have many advantages over other miniature crowdfunding projects, such as I make my own molds and cast my own figures, I often spot common mistakes in the crowdfunding community that inevitably spell disaster.  In no particular order, here is the first of 10 things to avoid by both the fund raiser and the supporter.

1:  Sculptures
     Too often, a crowd funded project offers concept artwork as a selling point for a line of miniatures they are attempting to create.  The problem with concept art is a lack of final production costs per figure.  Miniatures vary in size or mass and without having a final production version of an actual figure, there is no precise way to determine the total amount of raw materials such as tin or resin.  The exact cost based on weight of the final production miniature is the only way to calculate the profit or a break-even point.

     Here are the basics in determining costs in metal.  Find out the current rate of the metal you are casting in.  I use a tin alloy that I purchased recently at $12 a pound (price includes shipping charges from the smelter to me).  There are 16 ounces in  a pound.  Take $12 divided by 16 = 75 cents per ounce.  Weigh 10 of the same master casting.  In the example below,  10 of this Salvage Crew figure weighed in at three ounces.  Three multiplied by 75 cents is $2.25,  then divided by 10 and rounded up is 23 cents per this specific figure. 
     Why do I weigh 10 of the same instead of a single figure?  To make certain the scale accurately measures the figure and to eliminate fractions of ounces.  Double check by weighing five and changing your formula to accommodate. 

     For resin figures, you will need to calculate volume of liquid as it equates to cured weight first to get your base weight per ounce.  Now keep in mind that labor is part of your production costs, but that can be overlooked if you are casting your own figures.

Pledgers:  Avoid projects that only offer concept art.  There are a few companies that have successfully created miniatures with just concept art, I applaud them for their commitment, but I can’t stress how critical hard numbers are to any business venture. 

Crowdfunders:  If you can’t afford sculpts and master castings prior to launch, weigh out other companies metal figures at comparable size and then have the sculptors create a piece at a similar mass using your comparable samples.    

Next week:  Part 2: Income taxes


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Monday, December 15, 2014

Dungeon Decor series II




      My second kickstarter containing a collection of fantasy 25mm to 28mm scenery will be launched in the spring of 2015. This expansion contains over 40 never before seen pieces.  Series two was in various stages of completion when I made the decision to shut down Mega Miniatures, and like Road Kill Corpses, I want to finish this project. The majority of the master castings are nearly completed as of this writing as well as painted images.  Some of which I will share with everyone as teasers here on this blog once we are into the new year.

     There will only be two reward levels.  The first level at $30 and the second at $60.   All pieces from this series will be sold in my online store once the last kickstarter supporter's package has been shipped.  Because the purpose behind www.JohnnyBorgCastings.com  is to focus on the Salvage Crew range,  at some point in time I will be selling the Dungeon Decor series II molds to other companies, just as I did with the first series of Dungeon Decor.

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Sunday, December 14, 2014

Salvage Crew Humans Kickstarter (stats)




      My first kickstarter ended well and all rewards shipped to 240 customers within 45 days. Three customers did not pay and four customers pledged $1 for support. Rewards started shipping on November 3rd and finished on December 15th 2014.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/967512676/salvage-crew-28mm-humans

The basic pledge of $30 was for 20 human figures at 28mm scale (slot bases included)
Each person received a stretch goal package of nine additional security drone figures consisting of 25 parts.

Total parts per basic pledge (45 x 236 =10,620 parts)
Road kill corpses (80 x 27 = 2,160 parts)
Add-on security drone 101 (107 x 7 parts = 749 parts)
Add-on security drone 102 (55 x 5 parts = 275 parts)
Add-on security drone 103 (95 x 5 parts = 475 parts)
Add-on additional Salvage Crews (16 x 20 = 320 parts)

Grand total parts cast and shipped was 14,599

     Now that all rewards have been shipped,  we are now offering singles and the set of 20 humans at www.JohnnyBorgCastings.com

     The security drones will have their own Kickstarter with expanded parts / options in the fall of 2015 and are not available as singles at this time.  Follow my blog for updates when the security drones become available.  

Salvage Crew Body Count (basic game)



 
      In 2010, I bought the molds and rights to a game and miniatures line called Star Mogul originally produced by the defunct Alpha Forge Games. I absolutely fell in love with the figures and quickly made plans to expand the game system. Unfortunately, there was never enough time in the day to work on the new game retitled Salvage Crew.

      “Salvage Crew Body Count” is my second attempt at the game rules.  The first set of rules have been scrapped (no pun intended),  and I've started over from scratch with good results. The rules will be offered for free in the summer of 2015 focusing on the human figures and weaponry. This newest version is a fast-play game with action galore, the rules are easy to learn, and there are combatant deaths on both sides every turn. This game is great for the introduction of table top gaming for newbies,  plus you can use our figures or your own as weapon cards are part of this system. 

     After this basic game, I will add-on more rules as miniatures are introduced specific to light vehicles, security drones, and a few other races. I will roll out one Salvage Crew miniatures kickstarter a year to help defray the initial costs of mold work, metal ingots, shipping supplies, and other necessary expenses to help keep pricing down.  I simply don't have to raise as many funds to make a project happen, since I'm personally invested in the  initial sculptures before any offerings.   Be sure to follow my blog to get updated news about upcoming releases.    

Mega Miniatures R.I.P.




      During my 13 years (2001-2013) operating Mega Miniatures, I accumulating over 2,200 molds and offering some 1,700 figure products. Half of these various 25mm and 28mm ranges were originally produced by other companies such as Metal Magic Hobby Products Fantasy, late 1970s Archive, Grenadier Julie Guthrie Personalities, Alpha Forge, and Demon Blade Miniatures.

      The other half, were new pieces by various sculptors expanding upon existing lines or newly created pieces like our Animals range. The online store closed in October of 2013 with 95% of the molds sold to new owners. The only line I retained were some of the science fiction Salvage Crew figures and various unfinished projects that will eventually see the light of day.

      In recent years, I have not been able to devote my full attention to Mega Miniatures as I once did. Inevitably, Mega Miniatures was slated for the wrecking ball. My casting and mold equipment will remain in my possession for some time as I finish up projects beyond my closing date.

      Below is a list of most of the companies who purchased molds and production rights. Not all the molds have gone back into production as of this writing and a couple companies have since closed their doors.